Pisa and Florence

A long, long coach ride in the rain from Venice to Florence by way of Pisa yesterday left my lower legs swollen alarmingly. Nonetheless ....

I was very impressed with Pisa's cathedral and baptistry, but I regret to tell you that something is wrong with the pretty bell tower. It leans at an alarming angle. (Joke.) I found them very beautiful indeed, and it was so interesting to see these gleaming white buildings resting within the protective Roman-era city walls, dark brown and green with age yet still standing.

Another coach ride brought us into bella Firenze! At last! Our hotel is a converted palazio in the heart of the city, and the fabulous Duomo is three or four short blocks away. We started our visit last night with a trip high into the Tuscan hills for a fabulous gourmet dinner featuring Tuscan specialities such as risotto with zucchini flowers and vegetable soup that is so thick - because it is made with bread - that it is served on a plate next to the macaroni selection and the risotto as the second course. For the third course we had a mixed grill of five meats. After I had demolished one of these meats and declared it was the most delicious thing I had ever eaten, someone informed me it was bunny. I have never eaten rabbit before and never thought I would like to, but I became an instant convert.

The Gates of Paradise

This morning we visited l'Accademia where Michelangelo's David lives. The Italians refer to Michelangelo simply as "The Genius." The epithet is well-deserved. Then we walked over to the Duomo - my favorite piece of architecture in the world. It is huge, and you don't really realize how much it dominates Florence until you see the city from the perspective of the surrounding hills. Across the Square is the baptistry with the famous Gates of Paradise by Ghiberti. Faithful copies were made in WWII and sent to Grace Cathedral in San Francisco while the original doors were hidden in an old barn in the countryside to protect them from bombing. Tragically, a few years ago the Arno flooded Florence to a level of about 12 feet, and the bronzes were almost destroyed. In fact several of them were detached by the torrent of water and mud and were found later, floating many streets away. They have now been removed to a new art gallery, but handmade copies of the originals have been erected in their stead, and they are just as beautiful to the eye.

Then a quick walk to the Piazza della Signoria where a copy of the David now stands in its original place, as well as other amazing sculptures by Bernini and others, and we finished up at Santa Croce cathedral.

I am tired, tired, tired from the pace of this trip, with not a bit of downtime for 7 days and counting. So I am spending the mid-afternoon in my hotel room to recuperate my energy. However, at 4:00 PM I have a reservation to visit the Uffizi Galleries, only 3 blocks from the hotel. This is a side trip I am taking on my own. I am looking forward to spending time wandering along at my own tempo, lost in great art.

Tomorrow we are back on the road for Sorrento and Capri, then Pompeii and back to Roma by Friday night.